Channel: Jafromobile

Category: Autos & Vehicles

Tags: jafromobileracinghyundailogturbo4g63tsolderremovewiringjafromafbcslaserecumitsubishimapelantrarace4g63diagnosiselectricalboost control solenoidtaloneclipsediagramfwdconnectorinstalltpsharnesseagletroubleshootingsensorplugturbochargerthrottle position sensorecmlink

Description: These fixes cost me nothing but time. I bought that solenoid a year ago, and the harness connectors were free off of an old Foofy engine. While those things sound like positives, I'm pretty tired of having to hunt through this car to pinpoint and snipe these kinds of bugs. You guys seem to like it, though? Most people won't have this exact problem with their cars, but hopefully you learned something from my troubleshooting methods along the way? Maybe you already know how to do this or maybe you know a better method? F-150 fuel pump issue: f150forum.com/f38/2013-no-crank-no-start-320247 Piss excellence: hulu.com/watch/4850 Electrical Advice: 1. If you're going to install a used wiring harness in a different car, it's a great idea to sit down and probe the harness out for resistance and continuity. Probe your harness out if you want to know for sure what you're working with. 2. The copper crimp bands that the factory splices wires together with will probably work out just fine in a factory installation where the wiring harness fits the car properly and rarely if ever is moved or disconnected. If you're swapping a harness to another car, it's a good idea to solder those crimped connections. Over time both the wiring and the insulation become stiff and brittle. Changing its orientation for a different car only complicates this. 3. If you tape wires tightly together inside a wiring loom, it should only be done if it's serving as an electrical insulator, otherwise; go easy on the tape. Try to keep the tape on the outside of the loom. 4. When testing continuity, always disconnect power, the ECU, and all sensors on a circuit unless you're trying to test the resistance of those components along with your circuit. If you're doing that, ask yourself why? It makes more sense to measure them separately, but some people cut corners. Those people occasionally mis-diagnose the problem and unnecessarily replace an expensive and functional sensor, injector, or solenoid when the fix could have been free all along. 5. A datalogger and a multimeter can help you come to the exact same conclusion, it just takes a wiring diagram to guide you, and the patience to figure out the circuits. If you don't know how to read an electrical diagram, start on page one of the electrical chapter, it explains what all the symbols, numbers, wire colors, harness connector locations and pin configurations look like, and each manufacturer will do it a little differently. The electrical manual is written for mechanics, not engineers. It holds all the keys to unlock itself. 6. The split half troubleshooting theory applies to every complicated thing you'll ever work on. If you don't know what's broken, perform tests that eliminate half your variables each time. With a computer for instance, the first test you would perform for an unknown problem would rule out hardware versus software so that you don't waste time performing unnecessary tests on unrelated components. Keep performing tests that rule out half of the remaining components. The focus narrows. 7. When you're measuring resistance, touch your probes together to test your meter. Subtract that value from your readings when you probe your tested circuit to determine its actual resistance. Most meters don't read 0 ohms when you contact the probes. That resistance when you touch the probes together is not part of your circuit. It's widely-accepted that perfect circuit is .2 ohms. There are times when that will be different because some circuits contains resistors, and some are made from semi or super-conducting materials… but the electrical diagram for that circuit will always note these differences. Pay attention to these because in cases where it's different, if you don't follow those guidelines with your repair, it can fry components. 8. Butane soldering iron. Cars are rarely on your workbench or next to an electrical outlet. Why tether yourself to a 6-foot cord? Why use two electric tools to solder and shrink tubing? Why use an electric tool and your butane lighter? Why not use one butane soldering iron that you can use anywhere to do both jobs? 9. Don't just stretch your harness through the engine bay. Secure it to something. If the plastic clips broke, use zip ties. Think about sharp edges, temperatures and fluids so that you don't short-circuit, melt, freeze, burn, or dissolve your insulation in hydraulic fluid wherever you tie it down. EMI is also a noteworthy problem you can cause, and you'll know you did it wrong if you can hear your ignition whining in your stereo. 10. If it's less than 1 Ω, resistance is futile.