Channel: Matthieu Libeert

Category: Howto & Style

Tags: how tobella ciaomiguel herranpedro alonsoalvaro morteeasy compositesrobberyla casa de papeldenvermatthieu libeertdalipolyesterdiycarbonriocostumesongfibermake ahelsinkiprofesornairobihow it's maderesinsuitseason 3season 2season 1mouldmakingcosplaymoney heistsalvadornetflixvartmcompositesgoldoslofiberglassawarduni-mouldtutorialberlinmasktokiomat2epoxytokyolcdpmoneyteasermould

Description: Hi everyone! In this video I'll go through a couple of steps on how I made this casa de papel - moneyheist mask that can be seen in the first 3 seasons on netflix. The salvador dali mask is made out of Carbon Fiber and epoxy resin with a golden touch to spice things up a bit and because I can. I wrote down a full description of every step down here. 1. Preparing the master: To start with I bought a Salvador Dali mask online. This will become the plug to make the mould from. First I taped up all the gaps and holes to prevent leakage when pouring the polyurethane foam. It's a close cell dense foam that will expand up to 16x in volume. I roughly calculated the amount needed and then mixed the two parts. Keep in mind that the polyurethane will start to expand quickly so mix fast and pour. Wait for it to rise and cure, then cut of the excess so its level on the bottom. Fix the part with hot glue on the baseplate (I used melamine board here). Wax is used to seal any gaps that might be left like at the nose, sides, bottom and eyes. 2. Making the mould: The chemical release agent was used prior adding the gelcoat. 5 layers were applied with a clean cloth and after the last layer 1h was left to let all the solvents evaporate. To make the mould we will be using the Uni-mould tooling system from easy composites. The mouldmaking system contains 3 parts that need to be followed accurately in the right time span for good bonding inbetween the layers. The best thing about this system compared to other mouldmaking systems is that it's very stable against shrinkage and warping. It can also be postcured till higher temperatures if you want to postcure your parts into the mould later on. *The gelcoat: mix the desired amount with 2% of MEKP catalyst. depending on your environment (temperatures) you can use more or less. Keep in mind that the more resin you mix in one batch the faster it will cure in your cup. Once properly mixed apply your gelcoat on the part you prepared with a brush. Try to coat the entire piece evenly with the same thickness everywhere. *The Coupling coat: Once the gelcoat is in a tacky state (meaning it will make a sticky sound when pressed with your finger without leaving a mark on the gelcoat or your finger) you can start mixing the coupling coat with MEKP hardener again (to give you a rough idea, the amount needed will be close to the same you used for the gelcoat. A first coat of coupling coat is applied directly on the gelcoat, followed by adding some fiberglass chopped strands. I've used a 100g/m² fiberglass mat here. The binder in the fiberglass will dissolve and form nicely against your part. Once you have the right amount of resin on with the fiberglass you can use a roller to remove any bubbles or trapped air in the fiberglass. *The tooling resin: Last layer but important layer. When coupling coat is tacky this coat is added the same way as the coupling coat but with a thicker fiberglass mat. Add about 3 layers of fiberglass with resin and let cure for 24 hours ideally. you'll use about 5 times the amount of coupling coat in weight for this layer. Gently remove the plug from the mould, clean the mould, trim the edges of the mould, sand the mould if needed and soften the edges of your mould. Apply some Chemical release agent (easy lease) in 5 layers again, wait for 1 hour before proceeding to the next step 3. Making the Carbon Fiber part: Probably the more technical part: I've used the VARTM technique. Meaning the resin will be infused under vacuum through the fibers into the mould. That why you'll need a lay up of different layers. starting from the mould; Carbonfiber is added, 12K twill weave 650g/m² is used here to quickly create a rigid part with (personaly) a nice look. Followed by some peelply and a knitted infusion mesh. The peelply will make it possible to remove the infusion mesh at the end with the peelply only leaving carbon fiber in the finished product. To tightly compress everything in the mould a vacuum bag is used with some tacky tape. It's very important to have a fully sealed bag before proceeding with the next step being the resin. I've used some IN2 epoxy resin from Easy Composites, specially designed for resin infusion. You mix the resin with the right amount of hardener and mix well. Put the "resin in" tube into the cup and open the valve and watch the resin flow. Once reached the other side, close down the lines and let cure for plus 24h. 4. Finishing the part: Only thing left is demoulding, sanding with 320p sanding paper, airbrush some gold and add clearcoat! enjoy the result. In case you want to find the products used in this video, you can find them on following website: easycomposites.co.uk For more of my projects make sure to follow me on: Facebook: facebook.com/MAT2COMPOSITES Instagram: matthieu.libeert twitter: @matthieutje65 web: mat2composites.com #casadepapel #moneyheist #season3 #netflix #carbonfiber