Channel: 4DIYers

Category: Autos & Vehicles

Tags: v63.4l3.4l v6truckt100replaceengine oilchanging oil4runnerenginehow to loosen filter4runner engine oiltacoma5vzfeoil filter location10w305vz fehow to replace the oilhow to changet100 engine oil5w30tundra engine oiltacoma engine oilreplace oilcleanengine oil change4diyerstundrafiltersynthetic5vz-feconventionalhow to replacechange oiloil changetoyota5vzreplacing oilhow to change the oilreplacementmaintenanceoil filter

Description: How to change the oil on a Toyota Tacoma equipped with a 3.4L V6. This is the 5VZ-FE engine which was found on other Toyota models such as the Tundra and 4Runner, so a similar procedure may apply. Toyota has changed their intervals for this generation of Tacoma over the years which was based on light or severe-duty usage, now they recommend oil changes at every 8000km or 5000km or every 6 months, whichever comes first. Oil weights will vary depending on your climate or time of year, they do have this outlined in the owner’s manual as you can see here. As for the capacity, this does vary based on if it’s 2 or 4 wheel drive. For this truck, it required 5.2 liters or 5.5 quarts. #toyota #toyotatacoma #howto Website: 4diyers.com Patreon: patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: instagram.com/4diyers Tumblr: 4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: pinterest.com/4diyers Tools/Supplies Needed: -15mm socket -6" 3/8" drive extension -3/8" drive ratchet -clean clothes -new oil filter -new oil -oil pan -drive on ramps -funnel Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:24 Intervals/Oil Type/Capacity 01:10 Drain Plug Location 01:35 Filter Location 02:01 Drain Plug Installation 02:40 Filter Removal 03:05 New Filter Installation 03:29 Oil Filling 03:54 Oil Level Checking Procedure: First is warming up the engine to operating temperature, this will help the oil flow when draining. While this is still a 4wd and it has a higher ground clearance than compared to a 2wd truck, it still may be easier to use drive on ramps for easier accessibility. There is no need to remove the belly pans, there is a hole that allows you to gain access to the drain plug. Have a drain pan handy, then remove the 15mm drain plug using a 6” extension and a 3/8” ratchet. Due to the design of the belly pan, it’s a bit hard to keep this clean, so you’ll most likely get oil on your hands. While that oil is draining, the wheel should be turned to the left to gain access to the oil filter. Careful when turning the wheels on the ramp as it’ll cause the vehicle to shift, so make sure it’s safe. Using a small pry tool, pop the clip out of the rubber fender liner. With these being older, the rubber can tear easily so take your time. These are a fir tree-style clip, so they can be a pain to remove. When the engine oil is done draining, inspect the seal on the oil pan plug and replace it as needed. Make sure it’s clean, along with the sealing surface on the oil pan, then reinstall. The torque specification for the oil pan plug is 27 ft-lbs or 37 NM. Once removed, here you can see the filter behind the alternator. Unfortunately, this cannot be accessed from the front or underside of the engine. These may be different vehicles without a belly pan. Make sure you have the drain pan under the filter. With the belly pan, the oil may drip on top and down to the rear of the pan, so it would be a good idea to place something towards the rear of the pan to catch any drips. Mine was quite tight, so I had a hard time removing the filter. I ended up using large interlocking pliers to turn the filter a small amount at a time. I had two different styles of strap wrenches only to have the handles catch on the cross member. I also had a filter socket, but it interfered with the engine mount. Once removed, here you can see the old filter. Match up the old and new filters to ensure they are the same. With the new oil, apply a light coat on the new filter’s sealing surface. This will help seat the seal. Use a clean cloth to wipe the filter’s gasket sealing surface on the side of the block. Then install the new filter. Once the filter gasket makes contact with the sealing surface, turn it a half-turn or 180 degrees more. Finally is adding oil. Clean the area around the fill location. With some components in the way, it’s best to use a funnel here. This truck takes 5.2 liters or 5.5 quarts. Always check the oil level using the dipstick. The level should be between the minimum and maximum marks, these are shown by dimples and I’ll show you this in a moment. Once at the correct level, start the engine and check for any leaks. Then back the truck off the ramps. When on level ground, turn the engine off and let it sit for a few minutes to let the oil settle, then check the oil level again. As mentioned earlier, the minimum and maximum markings are labeled with dimples. Make sure it’s between these two markings. After that, you’re officially done. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.